By the way, my picks for the best treestand locations are in order of my favorite places to hunt because my chance for success will go up greatly if I find them. Sadly, these don't occur in every place that I hunt, but I will go out of my way to find them if they do!

Treestand Location #1. Beaver Dams. Yeah, you read right! Beaver Dams are some of the best deer funnels you can find. But not any old Beaver Dams will work. The ones I have the best bet with are the ones that are on deep creeks with few places for Deer to cross. It also helps if there is a reason Deer want to cross the creek, like going from a bedding area to a feeding area.

I truly believe Deer hate crossing Beaver Dams, but it's either that or get wet. While Deer are excellent swimmers and their hollow hair will keep them warm even when wet, they still will avoid swimming if given the chance. So if you know of a creek with Beaver Dams spaced a ways apart, scout them good and look for Deer crossing!

Treestand Location #2. Saddles in long ridges. When I'm hunting in Mountainous areas like the Ozarks or Quachita's, I look for long ridge lines with a saddle in them. Unfortunately in these two mountain ranges, when you find a saddle, it generally has a freakin' road in it! But there are a few...if you look hard enough.

The saddle doesn't have to be very deep either. There's one place in Northern Arkansas that the elevation change in the ridge is only about 10 feet. But that slight saddle is enough to funnel those Rock Pile deer through it year after year!(at least every year I've hunted there, I can't speak for the years I'm not there...:D)

The best way to find them is by using a topo map and following the ridge lines and taking note of elevation changes. You can also use Google and use the Satellite photo's to find saddles, but the smaller ones are harder to see if the photo's were taking in Spring and Summer.

Treestand location #3. Fence crossings. If you hunt in an area with a lot of fences, then you should be looking for places where Deer cross them. One of my best stand locations is a fence crossing where an old tree fell across the fence and broke it. The landowners on either side have no cows in these pastures so neither are worried about getting the fence fixed. If you want to know the truth, I think both are waiting on the other to fix it. That's okay by me, as my Titan Ladder Stand is 30 yards away and this crossing has supplied me with Deer sightings every year!

If you're not lucky enough to have a tree fall where you want it, there are ways of making a better fence crossing. What I've done in the past is cut brush and put at every crossing where I didn't want the deer to cross. I then found a place for a stand and took some para cord and tied it to the top strand of wire and then to the bottom strand. I then pull the two as tight as I can forming a v at the top wire and an inverted 'V' at the bottom, giving the Deer more than enough room to jump over or crawl under the fence. Obviously this works with a barbed wire fence, a web wire fence is totally different, you may only be able to pull the top down.

Whatever you do, make sure you ask the landowner before doing any of these modifications!

Treestand location #4. Finger ridges. Take your hand and lay it flat on a table or other flat surface in front of you. Now spread your fingers wide and pretend these are finger ridges coming off of a main ridge. The hub, the center of the back of your hand, is where you'll want to scout for a treestand location. This is where most of the Deer will pass through in mountainous areas. Sometimes it may only be 2 or 3 fingers coming together at the Hub, sometimes it's more. If the "Hub" is also a nice Oak flat full of acorns, then you might just be sitting on a honey hole! These are definitely places you want to check out and put a treestand if the sign indicates Deer activity!

Treestand location #5. Strips of brush or trees extending out into fields. These can be Golden! Normally, if you have trees or a line of brush extending out into a farm field, it's because there is a draw there. It could also be because the ground there always stays wet. Whatever the reason, if you can find a place like this, look it over real well! Chances are Deer are using it to enter and exit the field. Bucks will especially like these areas during the Rut.

My favorite place to put a treestand in a situation like this is normally right at the 'base' of the draw or brush where it begins at the field edge. If the wind allows me, this setup will catch any Buck that is scent checking the field or waiting for Does returning from the field and using this strip as a travel path.

Treestand location #6. Treelines. Speaking of treelines, if you can find one connecting two sections of woods or other Deer habitat, you've probably found you a Deer super highway! My buddy lives in the same house he grew up in. About 200 yards across the pasture behind his house is a treeline about 75 yards wide that runs for about 1/4 mile. It connects a huge area of woods on the South side with broken woods and grown up fields on the North side. There are cow pastures on either side of this treeline and the cows do a good job of keeping the grass down.

Where do you think a Deer that wants to go from the South woods to the North section will travel? That's right, the treeline! It's also a good place to intercept a Buck that is traveling through the Countryside looking for a hot Doe. It's not unusual to look out his back window in the early mornings or late afternoons and see Deer walking along the treeline.

Treestand location #7. Edges of grown over clear cuts where they meet hardwoods. Another of my favorite spots to intercept Bucks are at the edges of a clear cut that has been cut over several years back and allowed to grow up. Usually years 2 through 5 after a place has been cut, there will be some nasty briars, bushes and crap a sane Man would never want to go into. I usually don't either! Most times I can find a spot along the edge and set up a treestand there. I particularly like to find trails leading in and out of these clear cuts. When the pressure gets hot and heavy, the Bucks know that these are safe places.

If you have permission and you're willing to do some work, then you can make you a Deer magnet anytime you find a grown up clear cut. What I've done in the past is crawl, yes I mean CRAWL into these jungles for about 50 yards and then started cutting a straight path through this mess. The path is about as wide as I can extend both arms. Why do I crawl into these areas? Because if you start at the edge, someone may find it and you're secret hunting spot will be done for!

I make these paths about 100 yards long if I can. Once I've got one straight, I go back to the halfway point and start cutting another bisecting the first. So when I'm done, I have what would look like a "Plus Sign" if viewed from the air. At each end of the 'plus sign' I look for trees to put up a stand. I also try to have a tree near the intersection of each lane of the 'plus sign'. Deer will use these lanes you cut like you wouldn't believe!

The downside is that it can be hard to get into these place undetected, so you'll have to leave early and take it slow.

Another feature that I added to several was to rake away the leaves and crap once I had the lanes cut and then threw down some quick growing Winter seed like wheat and rye. Imagine having such a secret spot that no one else knew about in a heavily hunted area.

Treestand location #8. Habitat changes. Technically, Location #7 above could be considered a habitat change. As could places where the Woods meet Fields. These are generally all good areas to look for Deer sign. Deer are edge lovers! A few places of habitat change that I've successfully hunted over the years include places where wetlands met hardwood forest, Pine plantings met hardwoods and obviously where crop fields met any kind of brush, whether it was a swamp or forest. The nastier the better!

There's a WMA about 2 hours away from me where I hunt a few times each year. It's hilly, some would say slightly mountainous. But there are several places where the ridges come down and meet bottom land. The White Oak and Black Jacks of the hillside meet the Red Oaks and Ash trees of the bottom. Along this edge I've had numerous treestands over the years and nearly always see Deer there. If used this pattern at other places I hunt and can nearly always find deer. Keep this in mind when you're out there scouting this year!

Treestand location #9. Remote fruit trees. I'll have to admit that I'm not real big on seeking out the best Persimmon trees or hoping to find an old homestead with an ancient Apple tree that draw deer from miles around. When I was younger, I did take some Apple trees that I grew from seeds and plant them on our property. I think they lasted maybe a week before something ate them! That was pretty much my attempt at trying to make my own Deer attracting Apple orchard!

But I know others who routinely kill nice Deer at these locations. If you know of some type of fruit tree such as Apple or Pear, it may pay off for you to check them each year for fruit. Persimmons are popular in our hunting area, but I can't say I've ever killed a Buck from one. I've taken a few Does over the years because they'll visit them during the daylight. In normal years, the Persimmons are gone by Gun season so they only provide fruit for a few weeks. They start ripening and falling shortly after the first good frost.

Treestand location #10. Standing corn. This is my last pick simply because Corn is not a crop that is grown that much in our area. The few chances that I have had to hunt it, I found it very exciting. Standing corn is Deer cover and food all wrapped up in one. There's no need for Deer to ever leave the cover of a standing Corn field, but obvioiusly some do just for the heck of it.

I like to bowhunt standing Corn fields by still hunting across the rows. I generally do this on Windy days so that the noise of the Corn stalks cover any noise I make. It's not uncommon to catch the Deer beded down between the rows. Just remember to start downwind.

I've also put up a ground blind about 30 yards inside the standing Corn and watched the edge. This is especially good if the edge of the Corn is a long ways away from Woods. Deer expect trouble from the woods, but for some reason the don't expect it from inside the Corn itself. I will usually cut the stalks in one row so I have a clean shot from my blind out to the edge. Use the cut stalks to brush in your blind and have fun!

So there you have it, my 10 best treestand locations. Hopefully you'll keep these in mind as you're out and about scouting this year. If you find one of these locations, look it over real good for Deer sign. You might just have stumbled upon a honey hole that produces year after year!

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1. They fail to scout. Now when I say scout, that's exactly what I mean. I don't mean lollygagging around the woods taking potshots with a .22 a few days before season. I mean getting out weeks before the season opens and scouring your hunting area real good. Even if you're familiar with the lay of the land, you'll be surprised from time to time by what you find. Lots of things can change from season to season, that's why it's important to get out and scout!

2. They fail to become proficient with the weapon they're using. The funny thing is, the definition of 'proficient' changes from hunter to hunter. Some may believe it's being able to shoot a 2" group at 100 yards. Others think if they can hit a 12"x12" piece of paper at 50 yards, that is all they need. When I was a kid, my dad use to hang a one gallon paint bucket on a limb at about 50 yards. If he could hit it with his open sighted 30-30 Marlin, then his gun was "sighted in" and he was perfectly happy. And he killed a lot of deer with that gun, few were rarely shot past 50 yards though.

I think most of us would agree that a scoped modern rifle should be able to put at least 3 rounds inside 3 inches at any range up to 100 yards. If the gun can do that, then the shooter should practice proper breath control and trigger sqeeze.

For bow hunters, I believe they should be able to keep all their arrows inside a 5 or even 6 inch group out to 40 yards. Obviously I'd like to see them also keep at least 3 arrows in a 3 inch circle out to 40, but I had trouble doing that at 40 yards with my old compound. Only when I started shooting instinctively did my accuracy improve greatly. I just could never develop the form to shoot accurately with sights out to 40 yards.

3. Lack of Patience. Over the years I've learned that many times I found that a lack of patience was really a lack of confidence in most cases. Funny that you have no trouble sitting in a blind until Noon if you're seeing deer, or if you think you'll be seeing them. But a lot of people have a problem sitting still even an hour or so before they get up and start walking around. Which by the way, is another mistake beginners make!

I can't tell you how many deer I've watched impatient hunters spook because they were out of their blind or treestand by 8 or 9 and started walking around. If you've done your scouting properly, there should be no reason for you to be out plopping around the freakin' woods at 8 or 9 a.m. You're better off going back to camp and making coffee for everyone else who will be filing in in a few hours.

4. They call too much. I think beginners and even some veterans should have their deer calls taken away. I'd bet that the majority of deer hunters have never heard a real deer in the woods. And of those hunters, the majority of them have never listened to a pro on a CD or DVD call deer. They may have seen one of the TV show cowboys do it, but few have taken the time to hear real deer call in the woods.

Even if you're using an excellent grunt call like the MAD Grunt/Snort/Wheez call, you can easily over call and spook deer!

Usually one of two things happen. The Hunters will go out and call long and hard for a few days and when nothing shows up, the proclaim to everyone they meet from here on out that deer calls are jokes and do not work. Or, they use the call a few times and when a big buck doesn't magically show up, the lose interest and leave the call at home or back in camp.

I've been deer hunting for nearly 30 years now and I've hear deer vocalize only a few dozen times over the years. Of course, I probably spend a lot more time scouting and deer hunting than the average Joe as well. Deer make soft subtle sounds, even a buck trailing a hot doe doesn't grunt near as loud as many commercial call sound. Plus, deer don't make continuous sound every step they make!

5. They use too much scent. Like over calling, a lot of deer hunters are relying on that magical deer in a bottle to produce a buck for them. Many deer hunters subscribe to the theory that more is better. That just isn't true!

I dearly loved to watch the late Ben Rogers Lee. I use to have nearly all of his deer hunting videos and I learned a lot from watching them. However I cringed when he would pour a whole bottle of his deer scent on a tarsal gland or rag and say something like "Now you can't get to much of this scent on the ground, use plenty so the Buck can really smell it". I know he was just selling deer scent, but then again the guy didn't have a problem killing deer. He knew them just as well as he knew the habits of Turkey. But beginners thought his 'secret to success' was all that deer scent he was pouring out!

Deer can put Bloodhounds to shame. If you're going to use scent, use only a few drops. I think the majority of deer hunters would do far better without scents than with them. Most don't know how to use them properly or when to use them. I personally don't want a deer to know I'm anywhere around when he comes by my stand. Sure, I've had scents work and I've had them spook deer, especially when using a Doe in Estrous scent during the rut. Many small bucks that have had their butts whipped will spook. So will Does. They know that if a Buck is present, it'll be cold nosing them and pestering them for a long time. So they will avoid another Doe who smells like she is 'in'. That's why most of the time you'll find me using a deer scent like Wildlife Research's Trails End #307. I've used it for many years and it doesn't seem to spook deer in my area during the rut. I've also seen it attract several deer that I know of, including a few bucks.

6. Fail to plan. There's a saying in the business world that goes something like "If you fail to plan, then you're planning to fail". The same could be said about deer hunting. Do you have backup stand locations for different wind directions? What if there are hunters in your area, do you have an alternate plan? Have you ever went hunting and forgot your weapon at camp or home? Have you ever forgot your release or shells?

You should have alternate hunting stand locations mapped out and know which wind directions they are good for. Plus, a simple checklist that you check before heading out will keep you from forgetting an important part of your gear. Over the years I've heard of more than one story about a deer hunter who went ahead and sit in their stand even though they had forgotten their weapon or ammo only to have a Buck walk by within range. I bet you've heard one or two stories about unprepared hunters.

7. The use cheap equipment. When I say 'cheap', I mean poor quality equipment. I can't tell you how many people just want the cheapest piece of equipment they can find. Whether it's the cheapest bow, treestand, game camera or rifle, it seems their only requirement is that they equipment is cheap. How many times have you seen someone ask a question in the forums like "What's the best and cheapest bow?" or "What's the best and cheapest cold weather hunting clothes?"

It's okay to save a buck (no pun intended), but simply being a cheap scape because you're tight is a whole different matter. Poor quality hunting equipment can come back to bite you when you need it the most. Like scopes, rifles, bows, clothes, boots and other deer hunting products, sometimes it's better to save up a little while longer and buy the good stuff.

Don't get me wrong. Although I see beginners make most of these mistakes, making these mistakes doesn't seem to know the difference between a beginning deer hunter and someone who's been hunting for decades. The only thing I can see is that serious deer hunters make fewer of these mistakes than the weekend warriors. I believe it comes down to how serious you are about deer hunting. The more serious you are, the more you're likely to learn from your mistakes and not repeat them.

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I'm not sure if it was the extra time in the field or learning how to position my stands to intercept deer at bow range, but my buck kills certainly increased after my Dad bought me that my first bow, a Bear Polar LTD 4 wheel bow. Yeah, it has been that long!

Over the years, Bear bows have been know to be front runners in design and innovations. At some point though, they fell behind in both IMHO. Seems like in the last decade or so Bear bows were known as "starter" bows or "economical" bows.

In my opinion, they just seemed to always be lagging behind the trendsetters.

I think I can safely say those days are over.

'The Truth' Bow By Bear Archery

I stopped by my local Bass Pro Shops store over the weekend to shoot a couple bows for reviews here on the Buck Hunters Blog. The first one I picked out was Bear Archery's 'The Truth' Compound Bow.

Now I'm normally suspicious when one company seems to get another company to "endorse" its products such as Bear Archery has done with Primos. However, since I've used products from both companies for many years with excellent results, that suspicious feeling never materialized. If it did, it quickly left when I started shooting "The Truth"!

This bow is nothing short of amazing. I do have to hand it to the Primos Team and Bear Archery. This bow is Sweeet!

First off, it's lightweight with an axle to axle length of just 33". Now until recent years, I've been an old school finger shooter and the short axle to axle length bows would kill my fingers. Over the last few years, I've shot more and more with a release and I find that I'm getting more consistent over time with a release.

The Truth is also feather light weighing in at 4.2 lbs. Man, the old Bear compound bow I used to own felt like they weighed 10 lbs. I can't get over how light today's bows are.

Another thing I found great about this bow is that it felt good in my hands. Not all these little bows do, but The Truth felt like it was made especially to fit my hands, I like that!

The Proof is in the Shooting

Even though I have a 15 year old Darton bow I still hunt with, I've shot many of the latest and greatest bows over the years thanks to hanging around Archery Shops and friends who have to have new bows every other year!

I can say without batting an eye that The Truthis as smooth as any modern bow I've shot and I've shot all the name brand bows on the market today. I loved how smooth this bow is when coming to full draw. Long gone are the days of the herky jerky grunt and draw!

The 80% let off reduces the poundage your holding at full draw to practically nothing. The older I get the less bow weight I use. I'm now shooting a 63# bow. The fine folks at Bass Pro said the bow I was shooting was set at 65 lbs, but it felt a lot less. If I hadn't seen the scales myself, I would have thought they were pulling my leg.

The most important thing about a bow to me is how quiet it shoots. You can have all the speed you want. Give me a quiet bow any day over a fast and noisy bow. I can't tell you how many deer are dead today because the stuck (no pun intended) around and let me get off another shot after missing with my first one. You don't get those kinds of opportunity's with noisy bows. And a lot of the bows on the market today are noisy. Sure, they're fast, but they're also noisy.

By the time you add stabilizers and shock absorbers to the bow to make it semi-quiet, the weight is back up there around 6 to 8 lbs. What's the use of taking advantage of the new lighter bows if you have to pack so much junk on them to make them quiet? I don't like having a half dozen archery arrows hanging off my bow!

I'm glad to report that The Truth was a very quiet shooting bow. Even when shooting indoors, it was quite a surprise to hear how quiet it was. Shot after shot, I begin to think this would be my new hunting bow!

The next surprise I received was how fast the bow was. Now I've never been a speed freak, believing instead that a slow, quiet and accurate arrow makes more kills than a noisy, fast and erratic arrow. In my experience, there were few fast, quiet and accurate bows! The Truth is the first bow in a long time that I felt was fast, accurate and quiet.

I didn't have to worry about any of that with The Truth. Once I had the pin sighted in for me, it was a simple matter or producing very tight groups with this bow.

Overall I fell in love with the bow. I want one and I have to figure out how to tell the Wife that I'll be purchasing a new bow! Which brings me to my next surprise. The price!

In my opinion, this bow is priced a lot less than many of the high end bows that can't outshoot The Truth. I think many consumers get into the "if the price is high, the quality must be high also" syndrome. I also think many fall for a high price so they can brag about how much their bow cost. Because I've shot many of their bows and that's about the only thing you can brag about! With the money I'll save over the high end bows, I can now afford one of those ghillie suits I've been looking at!

The Truth comes with a very reasonable price tag. It's priced a hundred or more dollars less than many other bows that come with this many features.

If you're in the market for a new bow, give The Truth a try at your local archery shop or at a Bass Pro Shop near you. You won't be sorry.

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