buck fever

I think it's safe to say that most of us have had to deal with Buck Fever at one time or another. But as most of us know, it's how you deal with buck fever that will decide whether or not you go home with a deer or not.

Buck Fever is the condition that comes over a Hunter when they have an opportunity to take a deer. The deer may be right beneath their tree stand or 100 yards away. For many hunters, the sight of any legal deer puts them into an uncontrollable jerky convulsions. Hitting a deer at any range under these conditions is pure luck.

Even the best of us get buck fever. It's how you deal with it that counts.

Here are 5 tips for dealing with Buck Fever.

1. Get out and see deer. For people who never see a deer except during deer season, the sight of a legal deer within range can send them over the edge. Get out and watch deer. Go to a game farm if you must, but get out and see deer. Not only will it help with Buck Fever, but you might also become familiar with the body characteristics of Bucks and Does.
2. Control your breathing and thoughts. When you see a legal deer, focus on controlling your breathing. Nice deep breaths and slow exhales. Whatever you do, don't hold your breath! Also, don't freak out and start thinking "Oh my God, there's a deer, I better shoot quick before he/she is gone". Concentrate on making the shot. Focus on a spot. Count backwards if you have to in order to get your mind off the deer. Anything that will help you focus on making the shot.
3. Visualize yourself making a successful shot. I often sit in my stand and visualize myself making a successful shot on a deer. Even when I'm not in the stand, I'm thinking about making a good shot on a deer. See yourself remaining calm, cool and collective. Visualize yourself easing your weapon up and getting a good sight picture and focusing on a small area. Visualization can be very important in controlling Buck Fever.
4. Practice, Practice and then Practice more. It was three years of bowhunting before I took my first deer with archery equipment. The previous two years I had many opportunities, but failed for many reasons. On year three, the second weekend of the Season I had three Does come through the brush near my stand. I'd spent all Summer practicing with my bow. That year I had switched from shooting with sights to instinctive shooting. I never gave it much thought, but one thing I realized when that Doe was at 15 yards was that I was going to drill her. I couldn't explain it, but I KNEW without a doubt where that arrow was going. Practice with your weapon until you know it intimately. Practice builds confidence. Confidence in knowing you can hit what you're aiming at goes a long ways in settling your nerves.
5. Hunt small game. For many Hunters, deer hunting may be the only time when they have an opportunity to shoot anything. Buy a 22 rifle if you don't have one or take your bow and get out in the woods and hunt small game. Squirrels, rabbits or even varmits. It doesn't matter. The same dynamics that go into putting a deer on the ground are the same that goes into putting small game on the ground. Sight picture, control your breathing, steady aim, squeeze the trigger. When you can consistently take Squirrels at 40 and 50 yards with a 22, you'll be ahead in your deer hunting game. And who knows, you might find that deer hunting hotspot you've been looking for.

I've learned to control my Buck Fever until after the shot. That's when the shakes will hit me hard. My right leg gets short circuited and starts thumping like it has a mind all its own. There's no shame in getting Buck Fever. But you need to work at controlling it until after the shot. Then you can shake so hard that you knock all the leaves off the surrounding trees!

Hunting Clothes

You want to know a secret? You don't have to have the latest designer Camo to kill a deer! Yeah, shocking hunh!

Hunters in the Northeast have been killing deer for eons wearing nothing but Grey wool pants and the traditional black and green pattern wool coats. Some even wear the black and red plaid coats.

Any dull colored clothing will work fine as long as you're comfortable in it and it's quiet. Olive drab military surplus clothes work great. You can generally find the Military camo patterns available also. The Desert Camo is great for late season bow hunting. I would avoid wearing any brown or white colors during the Gun season though. Expect to pay less than $100 for true Military Surplus clothing (the stuff that has actually been used!)

You can also browse your local Wal-Mart store for hunting clothes. I scored several years ago on a green fleece jacket with huge pockets. Perfect for the way I hunt plus it's warm. I don't have a problem saving money on hunting clothes, I don't care who the retailer is.

Hunting Boots

Any good leather or rubber/leather boot will work for deer hunting. I've seen guys out in the woods with tennis shoes on, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Personally, I would buy a pair of boots just for deer hunting so they could be put back and kept clean.

In bow season and Muzzleloader season, I'll wear either the $15 a pair rubber boots from Wal-Mart or any other discount retailer. Good Ole Black PVC rubber boots are cheap. These rubber hunting boots will keep your feet dry if you hunt in wet areas. They're also very good and keeping your scent off the ground, which is why I use them during bow season.

They'll even work well in cold weather if you'll buy a size larger and layer your socks. I've used one pair of Cotton socks on first followed by a thick wool sock. Works wonders for keeping your feet warm.

Don't get the sock and boots too tight. A tight fit will cut the circulation off to your feet and they'll get cold, not matter how many layers you have.

I will tell you that you should not scrimp on your hunting boots if you can avoid it. If you have feet that get cold easy or have sensitive feet, pay the money and get you a good hunting boot.

When I'm not wearing the old cheapo rubber boots, I have a pair of LL Bean Maine Hunting Boots. Leather tops with rubber bottoms. In my opinion, one of the finest hunting boots on the market. They keep my feet dry, they're durable and I leave minimum scent walking in. I think my pair was around $95 and worth every penny.

Deer Scents, Calls, Etc.

Okay, for you new people to deer hunting, here's another secret I'm going to let out of the bag. You don't need all the scents and deer calls on the market to kill a deer! In fact, you don't need any! Yeah, I know what the marketing departments of the big companies all say, but don't listen to them. They're just trying to sell you deer scent and deer calls.

In fact, if you don't know how to use calls or scents, they can hurt your hunting more than help. Learn how to hunt deer without the gadgets. When can kill a deer on a routine basis without using calls and scents, then you'll be ready for them. Calls and scents are nothing more than an aid to deer hunting. Any as I just mentioned, in the wrong hands they'll hurt you more than help. You'll not get that many chances, so take advantage of every one you get.

Leave the calls on scents on the rack until you're a little more experienced.

Archery Hunting Equipment

Don't start out thinking you need the latest whiz-bang-wammy-mammy bow in order to kill a deer. You don't.

If you're not experienced in archery, I would strongly suggest that you stop by your local archery shop to buy your first set up. Tell them you're on a very limited budget and you just need a reliable bow set and arrows. Expect to pay around $200 for a bow set up for hunting and about $75 for arrows, field points and broadheads.

It's important for first timers to get help from experienced archers. Generally you'll find helpful staff in a bow shop, however from time to time you'll find the self adsorbed jerks there also. If you're jerk - snooty meter goes off when the guy or gal opens their mouth, leave and go elsewhere. You'll eventually find a shop staff member that is helpful, knowledgeable and friendly. Life to short to deal with cocky bow shop staffers!

If the store owner tries to sell you some 3,4,5 or $600 bow, go elsewhere, they're worried about their profit rather than seeing you're outfitted well.

Also, don't go buy a bow setup from a catalog or a discount store then take it to a bow shop and expect them to give you help. Some will, but most won't. Can you blame them? They way they look at it is that their bows may be slightly higher than Wal-Mart or one of the big Outdoor retailers, but you're getting personalized service and helpful customer service when you buy from them. Don't be surprised if you ask for help and they tell you to go back where you bought it from for help. Something to keep in mind when buying a bow.

Don't get caught up in the "Speed Kills" marketing hype. I believe this was a marketing buzz word put out by the Bow manufacturers many years ago to sell new bows. The funny thing is, I was just browsing Bass Pro's Archery offerings and looking at all the bow speeds. Most of those $500 to $600 bows are shooting in the 300-325fps range.

I can remember back when I bought my Darton Viper over 15 years ago. There were many bows on the market then that would shoot carbon arrows in the 300+ fps range. The main thing that has changed over the years is that the bows have become shorter and lighter. I'm not convinced that a shorter and lighter bow is worth $500 to $800. But hey, it's your money!

Treestands

If you're not experienced in using treestands, it's best to just leave them be. There are far too many hunters getting permanently hurt every year from falling out of treestands or having accidents while putting them up. Find someone to help you and who will show you how to use one or leave them alone for now.

If on the other hand you do have experience with treestands, then I'd suggest buying a new one. I've bought several used ones that have had problems. Better to get a new one that the manufacturer will stand behind. You'll also likely get a free harness as well. Use it!

You have several types of stands to choose from; Hang On, Ladder, Tripod, Tower or Climbing. I started out using Loc-On stands that had the plywood platforms and the chains. Geez, talk about dating myself! Now that I'm older, I look for comfort and the stands that do that for me are the Ladder stands and Tripods. However they are not a good choice for a person who wants to be mobile.

If you plan on hunting public land, you'd be wise to invest in a lock. Those treestands have a tendancy to walk away when you're not around.

If you choose a hang-on type stand, you'll be able to choose how to get your stand and yourself up the tree. Screw in steps, strap on steps or climbing sticks/ladders. Obviously the screw-in type steps and the strap on steps are the lightest and easiest to carry. Climbing sticks and ladders can add not only expense, but weight as well.

Good quality hang-on type treestands can be had for under $125 and many are beneath $100.

Blackpowder Rifles

A good blackpowder rifle will run you less than $200. I'd suggest your first blackpowder deer hunting rifle be a .50 caliber rifle that will accept 209 shotgun primers as the ignition source. CVA and Traditions both have rifles like this for under $200.

A scope would be nice if you can swing it, if not, don't sweat it. Save your money and buy one later.

If you know what you're looking at, Pawn Shops can be a great source for good muzzleloaders and most can be had for a song.

I'd recommend trying several of the .50 caliber bullets on the market. Hornady, Thompson Center and others put out quality bullets for muzzleloaders. Next, I'd start with Pyrodex or Triple Seven pellets. They're easy to use and come in 50 grain increments. In most rifles, two pellets will be all you need.

The pellets are pricey, but for the ease of use and the speed in reloading, they're worth the price in my book. (not to mention you don't need a powder measure!)

If you live in a State or region that only allows Shotguns or Muzzleloaders, then it might be worth your while to get a good flat shooting muzzle loader. I'd much prefer a flat shooting muzzleloader over a Shotgun. Check out my review of the MDM Buckwacka muzzleloader for a flat shooting, hard hitting muzzleloader.

Spend some time at the range with your new muzzleloader. Follow the directions for cleaning your gun. If you're going to hunt with muzzleloaders, you'd better learn how to clean and care for them properly. Even the modern blackpowder rifles need to be kept clean in order to work properly.

Deer Hunting Rifles

This will probably be your biggest expense when you start deer hunting. (if you choose to hunt with a modern rifle)

Here again, you don't need a $800 or $1000 deer rifle to kill deer. A $150 Marlin or Winchester you bought at a Pawn Shop will do the job just as well. There are many used deer rifles on the market that are just waiting to get taken out in the woods. Here is a list of 7 used deer rifles I'd recommend.

Pawn Shops can be a great source for good rifles at discount prices. If you're on a tight budget, plan to spend less than $200. You can even find some great military surplus rifles that will be more than adequate for deer hunting.

Here's an article you can read if you're just beginning deer hunting and looking for a rifle cartridge. 5 rifle cartridges for the beginning deer hunter.

Gun shows are also another source for good bargains, especially late in the day on the last day of the show. The remaining vendors will be looking to sell some inventory before packing up. You'll also find people walking the isles with For Sale signs on their guns. Cash talks so take it with you and leave the plastic behind. You'd be surprised at how a wad of green will get a Gun dealer to come down off the price of a gun!

If you don't know much about guns, then it would be in your best interest to find a local gun shop and buy your first deer rifle there. Just as with bow shop owners, if you run across jerks who happens to own a gun shop, move on.

A good gun shop owner will help you pick your first rifle and accessories. They'll also help you keep it under your budget.

Just like with the blackpowder rifles, grab you several different brands of ammo. Find what shoots best in your rifle.

Cabela's sells bulk ammo for several popular calibers like .270, .308, 30-06 and 30-30. It's 100 rounds and comes in a waterproof ammo box.

If you really want to go cheap, learn to reload. You can reload on the cheap by grabbing you a reloading manual and a Lee Classic Reloading Kit along with some powder, primers and bullets (follow the instructions in the Reloading Manual and Lee Reloader set to a "T")

The Lee Classic Reloader Kit comes for many popular calibers and the kit sells for about $20. If you have several rifle or pistol calibers you'd like to load for, then look at the Lee Hand Press reloading kit at around $35. It uses standard dies so you can switch from caliber to caliber. A reloading manual will cost you about $15 to $25 depending on which one you go for.

If you're really on a budget or live in one of the Midwest states that prohibit rifles, then break out your Shotgun. There are many choices when deer hunting with a shotgun. You may have a Shotgun like a Mossberg or Remington where you can exchange the smooth barrel for a rifled barrel. Or a barrel with rifle sights on it. So don't feel left out if you can't afford a rifle or live in an area where rifles are not allowed. If you can use a Shotgun, grab it and run to the range. Try out several different brands at 25 and 50 yards to see which one shoots best. You can then move back further and further until you reach 100 yards. That's just about maximum for most Shotguns with slugs.

Summary

So there you have it. Let's go over what we have.

• Hunting Outfit(s) bought at Military Surplus or Discount Store - $100
• Boots - $20 for cheapo's or $125 for better quality
• Deer Scents and Calls - $0
• Bow set, Arrows and Broadheads - $275
• BlackPowder Rifle and Accessories - $300
• Modern Rifle or Shotgun - $200

See, getting started in Deer hunting doesn't have to cost an arm and leg. Many times we get caught up with keeping up with the Jones' thinking we have to have the latest and greatest gear. If you can afford it and it makes you happy, know yourself out. On the other hand, if you want to get into the sport of deer hunting and don't have a lot of money, this is how it's done.

Good Luck and share some of your hunts with budget gear with me. You can even send me a picture, maybe I'll post it and share the story with other deer hunters here!

Advantages To Scouting for Deer in the Summer

There is pretty much two worlds of thought about scouting for deer in the Summer. Some believe that it does no good, believing any bucks you might see will be long gone come October or November.

Others believe scouting for deer in the Summer is helpful because it will show you what quality of bucks you'll have come fall.

In my opinion, both trains of thought are right and wrong. Allow me to voice my opinion.

In years past when I scouted heavily for Deer in the Summer, I knew that most of the Bucks I saw would be gone by early Fall.

Bucks just will not hang out in bachelor groups all year long. Especially the younger ones. They seem to wear out their welcome among the other Deer pretty quick!

So they disband and go their separate ways. Many will not see each other again unless it's in one hunters freezer.

I've found this to be especially true if there are a lot of Does around. It seems the Does know that these little Bucks will be pestering them relentlessly in a few months and they try and run them off.

In areas with few does, I've found that the little Bucks will hang around longer, sometimes right up to the gun Deer season.

Big Bucks are a whole 'nother story.

Simply put, they're unpredictable year round. If you see a large buck in your back yard all Summer long, chances are he'll be gone in Sept. or October.

Other times, I've watched big Bucks in fields and pipeline and power line right-of-ways and those bucks were still hanging around the general area come the rut.

Many hunters who hang out scouting cameras wonder where the big Bucks they see in the Summer have gone when it comes hunting season.

Truth is, they're out partying with the girls! Or trying to find girls to party with.

It seems that the more remote the areas I scout and find big Bucks, the more likely it is they'll be hanging around when Gun season rolls around. But when you're talking big Bucks, nothing is written in stone.

They may get hit by a car or die of natural causes. They may get whipped by a stronger buck and be forced to leave their core area. They may wake up one morning and feel pressured to leave by who knows what and they beeline out of the country. Big Deer have a mind of their own.

I'm always amazed at how cautious the big Bucks are even in the dead of Summer. They're generally the last ones to exit cover and the first ones back in. It's like they never relax entirely. The bigger they are, the more cautious they are. They didn't get those big ole racks by being smart only during hunting season!

Where to Start Looking For Summertime Bucks

You have to remember one thing when looking for Summertime Bucks. They're carrying around antlers on their heads that are covered with velvet that has millions of nerve endings and blood vessels in them. They know they have to protect their velvet from bugs and things that might scuff up their head gear.

They prefer to stay in semi-open terrain where there are breezes to keep the bugs and branches to a minimum.

I find many bucks in the same general area as Does during the Summer. Fields are a great place to glass in the mornings and evenings.

My favorite places to search for Summer Bucks are pipeline and power line right of ways. This is true especially if I'm scouting a new area or want to see what quality of Bucks the current area holds.

In some states, you can actually spotlight Deer at night. Just be sure to check your local regulations before doing this!

Summertime scouting for deer also gives you the chance to pattern the Does. Chances are they'll stick around the entire year. It helps to try and learn their patterns as well.

Of course, as the food sources change, so will the patterns. In agriculture areas, those patterns don't seem to change as much as they do in Deep Woods. Keep that in mind when you're scouting your hunting area.

Don't overlook watering holes. Although Whitetail Deer don't water like Cattle, in arid regions, especially as the Summer temps rise, they'll visit watering holes a lot more often than people think.

I've actually watched Does playing in an old Slough one year while Squirrel hunting. So expect the unexpected.

Is Summer Time Scouting Worthless For Hunting Season?

I've heard some people say that you're wasting your time scouting in the Summer. This isn't exactly true. If you only hunt the Gun Season or Late Season, then there might be some truth to this.

In States that have early hunting Seasons, Summer scouting can allow you to pattern and kill a Buck before some Hunters even start thinking about putting stands out.

The bachelor groups will still be around in August and even early September in most places. This gives early Season Hunters a chance to pattern and take the Buck of their choice before he goes bonkers and heads out to parts unknown.

The more you get out and learn what the Deer are doing in your hunting area do under certain times and conditions, the more you're likely be in the right place at the right time. Don't ignore scouting for Deer in the Summer, it can be a great time to get out before the Season and see what your hunting area has to offer.